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Sundial, calendar and Khmer temples
Astro-archaeology = archaeo-astronomy =
Astroarchaeology = archaeoastronomy
Prasat Ta Khwai (Ta Sawai)
A little known Khmer
jungle temple on the Thai-Cambodian border

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This ancient
Khmer temple is called Ta Khwai on Thai military maps and is located
on the Phanom Dangraek mountain range 4-5 km east of the Chong Krang Pass
and 11.5 km east of the probably contemporary Prasat Ta Muang Thom.
The local Khmer speaking farmers refer to the temple as
Prasat Ta Sawai. Sawai means 'mango' in Khmer – Khwai is Thai and means
buffalo, and neither name is original.
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The
editorial staff of Muang Boran Journal visited the site in
December 2003 and informs in an Internet article that ''Recently a new
sanctuary was found in the jungle of the Phanom Dongrek mountain range at
Ta Khwai pass.'' ... ''Although this lack of decorative elements makes it
impossible to specify the religion and the age of Ta Khwai Sanctuary,
judging from the form of the sanctuary it probably dates back to the the
12th – 13th century in the style of late Angkor Wat or Bayon.''
The
temple has been known by the locals for centuries and Etienne Aymonier (page
224, Khmer Heritage in Thailand, Bangkok 1999)
referred the the temple in the end of the 19th century: ''A mile and a
half SE of the village of Bak Daï'' ... ''before attaining the Chup Smach
Pass'' ... ''a knoll called Preah Eisei or Preah Risei, 'the saintly
anchorite' ...''. Bak Daï is located nearly 2 miles SE of Ban Ta Muan on
Aymonier's map. The distance from Ban Bak Dai to Ta Khwai is app. 10 km as
the crows flow and 2 French miles is app. 14 km.
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Above: Seen from west |
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Prasat Ta
Khwai is due to its isolated location on the Thai-Cambodian border in
a formerly Khmer Rouge infested area in a seldom well preserved
condition. The temple is surrounded by natural rock walls on the
western and southern side. On the northern and eastern side we find a
stone platform. The hill slopes down to the east but was not
researched for the presence of an eventual baray (reservoir) or
processional stair-cases due to the danger of land mines.
The cruciform shape of the tower, details in tower
niches, and the unfinished appearance resembles the 11th century The
Angkorian temple mountain Ta Keo at Siem Reap, Cambodia. The naga
blocks are in place but the stone cutters never started their work.
The tower is built in sand stone on a sandstone base on the mountain
rocks, which is another factor that it is still solidly standing.
In the central tower we find what looks like a 'natural
Linga' of the Svāyambhuva type: ''Svāyambhuva means self creating. A
Svāyambhuva linga is considered particularly sacred.'' (Briggs, p. 55,
The Ancient Khmer Empire). |
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Above: Seen from west |
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Above: a 'natural Linga' of the Svāyambhuva type.
The presence of a linga indicates that the temple was a Shivaite
temple. The nearby Prasat Muan Thom is also centred around a
Svāyambhuva linga. |
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Above: Seen from west |
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History and dating
Ta Keo was build by Jayavarman V (968-1001 AD), who is
accredited for initiating the Khleangs, Phimanakas, and the Gates of
the Royal Palace of Angkor Thom. The art style is generally referred
to as Khleangs.
Jayavarman V was succeeded by Udayadityavarman I, who
after only a few years reign was succeeded by Jayaviravarman, who also
reigned for less than a decade.
From the 2nd decade of the 11th century Suryavarman I
(the first Buddhist king of Kambuja) ruled until 1049. The following
king at Angkor was Udayadityavarman II (1050 - 1066) and the art style
generally referred to as Baphoun.
The
Svāyambhuva linga excludes that the temple dates to the Jayavarman VII
and Baphoun style and indicates that it must at least belong to the
same era as the nearby Ta Muan Thom. Due to the resemblance of the
Khleang style Prasat Ta Keo and its incomplete condition makes the
author suggest late 10th century - beginning af 11th century. |
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The future
Presently Prasat Ta Khwai shares the same faith as
Prasat Ta Muan Thom and Prasat Sdok Kok Thom: The exact location of
the Thai-Cambodian border is not yet settled.
Ta Khwai has a large tourism potential if managed
carefully. The ancient Khmer temple has a unique location in pristine
virginal jungle.
From Route 2121 a new (2005 AD) bitumen road leads the
visitor 8 km down to a military post. From there is possible to go by
4-W cars or motor-bikes another 7 km south to another camp, most of
the way in pristine forest. The last 1.5 km to the temple consists of
a hard to walk jungle track where birds are abundant and monkeys still
can be spotted. |
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Above: Two kind of guides escorting the author |
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The unique
location of Prasat Ta Khwai gives the option of preserving an
unspoiled archaeological site in an untouched natural environment. The
author proposes to investigate the slope due east of the site and
restore the ancient entrance to the temple. A narrow straight east
opening in the jungle would give possibility for Surya, the
Sun, again to illuminate the Svāyambhuva linga on equinox mornings -
Vedic Solar New Year.
☼
Acknowledgements:
The author is indebted to the dean of Faculty of Management Science at
Surindra Rajabhat University, Surin, Mr. Surya Chanachai, for
supplying me with a letter of introduction to the Tahan Phlan
Border Police who kindly escorted me to the jungle temple. Also a
warm thank to Dr. Sorachet from Rajabhat University, Buriram, for
emphasising the need of writing this short article. |
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Above: Corner blocks for naga depictions
INDEX
20 April 2006
© Asger Mollerup
macsida@thai-isan-lao.com
www.thai-isan-lao.com

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